As a lover of all pulses as well as Mexican food, I made a great pot of black beans a couple of days ago and wanted to immediately share the recipe. However, impossible to talk about beans without first saying something about that most indigenous of American grains: maize
Domesticated as long as 8,700 years ago in the low-lands of what is now Oaxaca in southern Mexico, corn is not short on history, symbology or ritual. But when the Spanish introduced it to the rest of the world by the Spanish, they left behind one vital element: the indigenous Americas had developed a method for bringing out the full nutrition and flavour of corn: nixtamalization
Nixtamalization Of Corn
By reputation corn is considered by many to be a second-rate grain: relatively low in protein, high in carbs and lacking in key vitamins and other micro-nutrients. Think Italian polenta, tasty only as its companion sauce
Now, consider Mexican tortillas fresh off the skillet. These also contain tasty fillings, but now they complement the delicious taste of corn which holds centre-stage. And with taste comes nutrition. This corn has more protein and a significantly greater range of vitamins and minerals. The difference? The 1500 year-old process unique to pre-colombian Central America: nixtamalization
From Maize To Nixtamal
Nixtamalization refers to the process pre-cooking corn in an alkali solution. This process effectively breaks down the indigestible outer husk, releasing flavour while greatly increasing the nutritional content in the form of protein and essential vitamins and minerals
Early methods of nixtamalization used pot-ash, a watery solution of strained wood-ash in which the corn was partially cooked
Later, lime-wash (calcium hydroxide) became the favoured method. The corn is boiled in a dilute solution containing slaked lime, then left to soak overnight before being thoroughly rinsed, ready to use
Nixtamalized corn is also great news for regulating your blood sugar: with a glycemic index of 52 and a glycemic load of 12, nixtamal is considered a low glycemic food, meaning it will release glucose into your blood at a gentle and healthy pace
The Nutritional Benefits
Of Nixtamalized Corn Masa
Corn masa, both fresh and from instant masa harina, is rich in a wide range of essential nutrients. Masa is considered a high fibre, low glycaemic food rich in protein, complex carbohydrates and essential vitamins and minerals, including vitamin B3, Iron and Calcium. it is virtually fat free and is gluten free, thus suitable for people with Coeliac's Disease and other gluten sensitivities. The presence of soluble fibre and resistant starches also provides significant pre-biotic properties, helping to keep your friendly gut bacteria well fed and healthy
High In Fibre:
Depending on the size, a single tortilla can provide up to 2g of fibre. That's comparable to a slice of wholewheat bread. The process of nixtamalization further produces resistant starch. By resisting being broken down by digestive enzymes resistant starch functions as fibre which your friendly gut bacteria use as food
Apart from aiding intestinal transit and keeping you regular, fibre is essential for the nurtition of the intestinal microbiome. The role of the resident gut organisms in health is one of the hottest topics or our day
Intestinal flora synthesize and release many substances essential for health, from short chain fatty acids involved in regulating the inflammatory process and other immune functions, to the neurotransmitter serotonin, essential for regulating mood
With the average person on a typical Western diet struggling to ingest 20g out of the recommended daily 30g of fibre, corn masa is a rich source of this most essential nutrient
Low Glycaemic Index And Load
The rate at which foods release sugar into your blood stream is known as the glycaemic index. the glycaemic load further looks at how much the food you eat will raise blood sugar. With a glycaemic index and load of 52 and 12 respectively, corn masa is considered a low glycaemic food. This is great news not just for diabetics: keeping your blood sugar levels steady avoids hunger pans, aiding in weight control, and may also be beneficial in preventing diabetes
Vitamin B3 And Nixtamal
Vitamin B3 (niacin) is one of the eight essential B vitamins, necessary to help the body extract energy from food, support normal nervous system function and help keep your skin and gut healthy. Niacin is water-soluble, so your body can’t store it and you need to get it from your daily diet
Though corn has found its way to all corners of the globe, it has done so un-nixtamalized, and during leaner times has failed to prevent outbreaks of Pellagra, a potential deadly disease resulting from deficiency of vitamin B3 (niacin) in societies relying on corn as a staple
Pellagra includes a triad of dermatitis, dementia, and diarrhea and when severe can result in death. It has been effectively unknown in Mexico and other parts of Latin America where the ancient tradition of nixtamalizing corn has been practiced for millennia
Low In Antinutrients
The process of boiling corn in alkali neutralizes antinutrients naturally found in grains and other seeds. Phytic acid in particular binds to minerals such as Iron and Calcium, effectively blocking their absorption. In addition to breaking down phytic acid, nixtamalization with lime-wash (Calcium-Hydroxide) not only reduces adds Calcium which can now be more fully absorbed
From Nixtamal To Tortillas, Tlacoyos, Tamales And ...
Making nixtamal is the easy part. Grinding it for items like tortillas and tamales is where the real fun begins
While tamales require a coarse grind which can be achieved (in my opinion, though traditionalists would disagree) with a food processor, tortillas require the finest possible grind, achievable only through hard work and the removal of the kernels’ outer skin
The traditional stone grinder (metate) requires great physical effort from even the most skilled. For this reason the metate’s function is largely ornamental in middle-class Mexican homes, though you will definitely see rural Mexicans grinding corn, chillies and all manner of other ingredients in the metate
For fine tortilla masa, cooks will often take their nixtamal to the local mill, returning home to shape and cook their tortillas, a service increasingly less available in most places outside of Mexico and Latin America
The latest chapter in the nixtamal story arrives in the 1970’s when corn dough was sold dehydrated as masa harina. Instant nixtamal requires the simple addition of water! Finally, anyone can make perfect tortillas and tamales at home
Nowadays you can get tortillas vacuum packed, ready to eat, from shops and supermarkets in and beyond Mexico. A good on-line source for us Europeans is the UK-based cool-chile-company. (Nixtamalized) tortillas are also available from Wholefoods and some larger branches of the major supermarkets. (Did I mention amazon?)
In the UK you can now enjoy a real, nixtamalized tortillas and tamales from places like
- The Taqueria (Westbourne Park Road, London)
- Wahaca (UK-wide), and
- Pastor (Stoney Street, London)
In the US: where to start!
The journey from dry corn kernels to plated tortillas or tamales is one requiring determination, patience and strength. A food processor will ease some of the pain, but you will still need to use some kind of grinder – mine resembles an old-fashioned mincing machine, fitted with a grinding stone.
Masa harina takes out all the work. And it does have a great taste. However, nothing matches the taste of a freshly made tortilla from dry corn taken through all it’s stages to freshly home-made masa
As with all serious travel, the arduousness of the journey is forgotten on arrival as fatigue turns to joy when you savour a fruit inextricably linked its process
We're showcasing the use of Nixtamal with a top crowd pleaser during our yoga retreats: pizza tamalera: a baked nixtamal-based "pizza" with a spicy Mexican tomato caldillo sauce and a medley of vegetables covered in melted cheese or crunchy toasted nuts, as per your liking
Recipe For Nixtamalizing Corn
Equipment
- 1 large pot earthenware or enamelled is best
Ingredients
- 1/2 kg (ie. a few handfuls) of dried corn kernels It needs to be field corn. Pop-corn and sweet corn are not suitable for this recipe
- 1 tsp slaked lime / lime-wash (calcium hydroxide) quick-lime (calcium oxide) is not suitable here
Instructions
- wash the corn, strain, and put into a pot
- add sufficient to cover the corn by a couple of inches
- dissolve the slaked lime putty in a little water
- add the lime solution to the corn and bring to the boil
- for best results simmer for just 15 minutes, then allow the corn to soak in the lime solution overnight
- if you want to use the nixtamal on the same day, cook for 30-40 minutes, depending on the size of the corn kernels and leave to soak until the mixture has cooled to room temperature
- The resultant kernels should be soft and wet on the outside but still retain their powdery, chalky centre
- Transfer to a large bowl if necessary and placing this in your kitchen sink vigorously rub the kernels to loosen their skins. As the skins float to the top pour off some of the water and skins, topping up with fresh water and continuing the process as necessary
- The more skin you can remove, the smoother the final masa or dough
Mexican Caldillo Tomato Sauce
Ingredients
- some good olive oil
- 1 white onion chopped or sliced
- 1-2 cloives garlic chopped or macerated
- 6-7 ripe tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped or pureed whole in a food processor or a 400g tin of tomatoes
- 1-2 chipotles: preferably in adobo, otherwise use sliced dry chipotles softened in a little warm water or ground chipotle powder OR Spanish hot smoked paprika
- a bunch of coriander - leaves
- 1 litre vegetable stock homemade or bought
- salt to taste
Instructions
- Heat enough oil to just cover a medium, deep fying pan
- Add the onions and garlic and soften at medium low heat for around 10 minutes
- Add the tomatoes and chipotle chillies
- When the tomatoes start to reduce down start adding a couple of ladlefuls of hot stock. Reduce this down, uncovered, and keep adding similar quantities of stock. When you've used up half of your stock-pot add the coriander, season and continue adding stock until it's all used up
- Use in your favourite dishes
Pizza Tamalera
Equipment
- food processor (or hand driven / electric corn mill)
Ingredients
Base
- 1 lb home-made ground nixtamal (see above) or masa harina for tamales
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 20 g olive oil or vegetable shortening (for a 1:5 ratio) - use more shortening if you prefer a richer dough
- water or vegetable stock (use approx a 1:1 ratio water:masa harina, and 1:2 ration water:fresh nixtamal
- salt to taste
Tomato Sauce
- 1 quantity tomato caldillo (see recipe above) or any tomato sauce of you choice
Toppings
- 1 small red onion
- 2 sweet bell peppers, various colours sliced into strips or rounds
- 1 courgette sliced
- 1 punnet mushrooms sliced
- 1-2 jalapeños or any large medium-hot chilli (red and green) (optional)
- your favourite fresh herbs (optional)
- grated dairy or vegan cheese or crushed nuts, such as hazelnuts, almonds, or hulled pumpkin seeds
Instructions
- warm the oven to 180C
- line a round or rectangular baking tin with greaseproof paper and grease lightly
Prepare The Tamal Base
- hydrate the masa harina if using with an initial 1:1 ratio of water
- fresh nixtamal is fine as is
- add the oil or fat to the nixtamal and mix it in with a spoon or using your hands
- add extra water or stock to achieve a spreadable but batter that still holds its shape
- and in the baking powder, mixing thoroughly
Assemble And Bake The Tamal
- spread the prepared tamal dough evenly over your lined baking tray, smoothing the top
- bake the tamal base for around 10-12 minutes, until set, but not browned
- spread on half the caldillo sauce, scatter on the cut vegetables and top with cheese or nuts if using
- return the "pizza" to the oven until the vegetables have softened and the cheese has melted (10-15 minutes)
- slice and serve with extra warm tomatillo sauce and a crisp salad
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